The Skin Diver File

If we agree that humanity’s fascination with discovering the world has shaped the history of watchmaking, then it’s time to get a little wet.

Oceans have always been at the forefront of the most challenging and captivating discoveries in human history. And it’s not just what happens above water; our curiosity about what lies beneath, combined with the limitations of the human body, makes underwater exploration all the more intriguing. The invention of diving equipment made underwater breathing possible and once again emphasized the importance of timekeeping. Measuring time underwater became crucial, marking the rise of waterproof watches capable of withstanding high pressure.

Many know that the first dive watch was the Rolex Submariner, introduced in 1953. The 6204 reference model featured a 36mm case and 100 meters of water resistance. The following year, the water resistance was bumped up to 200 meters. Rolex’s success was not only due to the watch itself but also a brilliant marketing strategy. However, the mid-1950s was such a revolutionary period in the watch world that many models, still considered legendary today, were born during this era.

Photo: Bobs Watches

So what exactly is a Skin Diver? When people think of diving, they often imagine SCUBA (Self Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus) gear, which allows divers to plunge hundreds of meters below the ocean's surface. Advances in technology have made even greater depths accessible. Thus, in the 1960s, watches like the Rolex Sea-Dweller and Omega PloProf emerged, boasting water resistance ratings of 300 meters, 500 meters, and even 1000 meters. But not everyone needed such depths. Enter the Skin Diver category. While not strictly defined, the distinguishing feature of Skin Diver watches is their water resistance rating, typically below 300 meters.

Photo: Bobs Watches

Photo: Hodinkee

According to ISO6425 dive watch standards, a watch must have a unidirectional rotating bezel with minute markers to be considered a dive watch. Additionally, these watches must be tested to 25% beyond their stated water resistance. So, a watch rated for 100 meters is tested at 125 meters or 12.5 bars to ensure water resistance. For watches not marketed as dive watches but claiming 100 meters of water resistance, manufacturers tend to be more cautious with their guarantees.

Skin Diver watches typically offer 100-200 meters of water resistance. These models maintain all the essential features of a standard dive watch but are equipped with slimmer cases, crystals, and casebacks. This allows them to perform more comfortably in everyday life when they’re out of the water.

photo: dannysvintagewatches

The Zodiac Seawolf is often cited as one of the first Skin Diver models. Similarly, Blancpain’s rotating bezel Fifty Fathoms models can also be classified in this category. This debate is never-ending, but according to official records, the first dive watch title still belongs to the Rolex Submariner. Whether Blancpain was the first is uncertain, but they were certainly among the pioneers.

Today, the Skin Diver category remains popular. Smaller diameter cases, slim profiles, and the durability of a dive watch with everyday functionality attract enthusiasts of all ages. Big names like Longines and Oris are players in this space, alongside smaller brands like Vulcain and Yema. Even the Japanese giant Seiko and Germany’s pride, Glashütte, are showcasing impressive Skin Diver models.

Skin Diver watches tend to offer lower water resistance along with (comparatively) lower price tags. Personally, I’ve been going back and forth between one of Seiko Prospex's reissues and Vulcain’s distinctive bracelet Skin Diver Nautique model.